As a modern-day faux bois artist, I’ve long dreamed of traveling to France to find what remained of the earliest concrete faux bois structures in the public parks and gardens of Paris. I needed to connect across time with the original vision of the landscape designers and artisans who introduced the world to this unique art form more than a century ago.
That dream became reality when my husband and I traveled to Paris for a few days in Fall, 2024. I was on a mission to seek out and document the original faux bois so that its cultural importance would not be lost to history. It was challenging, since I could find no listings or guides explaining exactly where to find it.
After extensive research, I was able to locate a few publicly accessible sites where you can see some of the earliest faux bois in the world. This is by no means a complete list, but I hope it will help you indulge your love for faux bois on your next visit to the City of Lights.
Faux Bois in Parc Montsouris, Paris
Details
- Opened in 1869.
- Designed by Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand
- Admission: free
- Open: daily, all year-long
- Metro stop: Cité Universitaire
Review
If you’re searching for old faux bois in Paris, Parc Montsouris should definitely be at the top of your list. In fact, I would go as far as to call it an outdoor museum of very early European faux bois.
The faux bois in this park was created over time by various artists, with styles ranging from simple handrails with highly stylized bark patterns to very organic and realistic staircases.
To find the faux bois, enter the park and follow the paths to the left. There will be a long faux bois railing on your right. As you reach a large intersection of paths, the grand stairs will be down the path to your left, and a wonderful circular bench and garden room with a cascade overlook can be found to your right.
You’ll see exquisite faux bois benches, railings, stairways, bridges, and a cascade. I recommend bringing a lunch and having a picnic sitting on the curved faux bois benches in the hidden garden room above the cascade. Further explorations of the park reveal two large breathtaking staircases. Don’t forget your camera, because they’re very photogenic.
Faux Bois in Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Paris
Details
- Opened in 1867 (5th largest park in Paris)
- Designed by Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand
- Admission: Free
- Open: daily, all year-long
- Metro stop: Buttes-Chaumont
Review
This park is beautiful, expansive and a “must see” for anybody looking for old faux bois. It features acres of faux bois railings, unique and charming stairways and a boat launch on the shores of a very picturesque lake. The lake shore area is a beautiful place to rest, and you’ll find food venders and public restrooms.
When you enter the park, take the first turn to the right and follow the path until you see a long stretch of faux bois railings. To the left will be the access to the island, and to the right will be a long, curving path and staircase down to the lake.
A broad array of sculpting styles can be seen in this park ranging from very organic and realistic to rustic simplicity and highly stylized (verging on eccentric) bark patterns. It makes me happy to think that several different faux bois artisans were able to express their unique creative voices while working on this project.
Across the lake you can see an island and some faux bois railings, bridges, grottos and a small Roman style pavilion. Parts of the island are being renovated due to crumbling infrastructure. Unfortunately, until this renovation is finished (in a few years), you won’t be able to go onto the island to explore the pavilion, grotto and faux bois bridges. However, you can admire them at a distance from the shores of the lake, so I recommend bringing binoculars or a telephoto lens for your camera.
Even without island access, this park is beautiful, with a varied terrain, and it still merits a visit from anybody who loves faux bois.
Faux Bois near the Monument à la Admiral de Grasse, Trocadero Gardens
Details
- Opened: 1878
- Admission: free
- Open: daily, all year-long
- Location: 2 Boulevard Delessert
- Metro stop: Passy (closest)
Review
This beautiful little park is a hidden gem, mostly known and enjoyed by residents of the surrounding neighborhoods. This green space, which is part of the Trocadero Gardens, features multiple levels of interesting faux bois railings and artfully sculpted rock walls and stairways. It was created as an entertaining way for pedestrians to pass up or down between neighborhoods that were built on two different levels.
As you leave the Passy station, turn right on Boulevard Delessert. The monument is on the left after several blocks of buildings.
This park can be found in a peaceful, elegant neighborhood within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower. It’s very easy to find it if you search for the Monument à la Admiral de Grasse.
Faux Bois in the Eiffel Tower Gardens, Paris
Details
- Opened: 1878
- Admission: (gardens only) free
- Open: daily, all year-long
- Location: Eiffel Tower grounds
- Metro stops: Champ de Mars/Tour Eiffel, or Trocadero
Review
During my trip to Paris, I discovered that faux bois was proudly built near several famous landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower. A few years ago, the gardens at the base of the Eiffel Tower were restored to the way they looked during the Belle Epoque.
The restoration included completely rebuilding faux bois railings in the East Garden, and ongoing plans to restore faux bois and rock and grotto structures in the West Garden.
The East Gardens and the West Gardens of the Eiffel Tower are separated by a pond, but pathways around the pond will take you from one garden area to the other.
West Garden: For direct access, follow paths around the right side of the Eiffel Tower enter through the check point at Allée Léon Bourgeois.
This garden features original faux bois railings, a concrete grotto with a cascade, a more than 200-year-old sycamore tree and sculpted rock stairs.
There are two areas with faux bois railings. One area is by the pond, but behind a metal gate. You can see it and photograph it, but not get close enough to touch it. If you climb the faux rock stairs and descend on the other side, you will see an old faux bois railing. You can get close to this faux bois and take some interesting photos with the base of the Eiffel Tower in the background. The inside of the grotto was not yet open to the public during my visit.
East Garden: For more direct access, follow paths around the left side of the Eiffel Tower and enter through the check point at Allée Paul Deschanel.
This garden was recently renovated to its former glory, including a long faux bois railing in the traditional style. Though this railing is relatively new, it’s worth a visit from any lover of faux bois.
Faux Bois at Au Lapin Agile, Paris
Details
- Cabaret opened: 1860
- Admission: free (courtyard only)
- Open: (outside) daily, all year-long
- Location: Montmartre, 22 Rue des Saules
- Metro stop: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Review
This intimate cabaret in the eclectic Montmartre district of Paris has been operating since 1860. Its charmingly rustic faux bois railings enhance the bohemian vibe that has lured creative renegades for nearly two centuries. Based on a study of historical photos and paintings of the building, I believe that these concrete faux bois fences were probably built about 100 years ago.
History
Au Lapin Agile has a long and checkered past. In the early 1900s, struggling writers and artists who are now household names, like Picasso and Modigliani, drank and exchanged ideas about life and the meaning of art. It still offers nightly cabaret shows.
In 1905 the club owner commissioned 25-year-old Picasso to create artwork to decorate the walls inside the cabaret. Picasso was happy to exchange his painting entitled “Au Lapin Agile” for free food and drink. In 1989 that painting sold for $40.7 million. It now hangs in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Faux Bois near the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur
Details
- Admission: free (church grounds)
- Open: (church grounds) daily, all year-long (park hours are unknown)
- Location: Pl St.-Pierre
- Metro stop: Anvers
Review
This is one of the most iconic landmarks in Paris, and I was thrilled to see some faux bois log stairs curving around each side of the church grounds. There are also some faux logs artfully integrated into the landscape in various areas.
A Hidden Park: At the top of the log stairs on the right of the there is an entrance to a small park that spans from church grounds through a forested area and ends at a neighborhood in Montmartre. Some of the paths in this park have faux bois stairs and railings. The park was closed during my visit, but I could see a faux bois railing built on top of a cliff while walking along Rue de Ronsard.
If you’re able to walk through this park during your wanderings through Montmartre, please post about your experience in the Comments section of this blog!
Faux Bois in Jardin de la Nouvelle France, (near the Grand Palais)
Details
- Opened for the Universal Exhibition in 1900
- Admission to park: free
- Open: daily, all year-long
- Location: Corner of Av. Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Cours-la- Reine
- Metro stop: Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau
Review
If you’re planning to visit the Grand Palais, don’t miss this lovely little park. Most people don’t know the park is there, let alone that it is home to a very old, still functioning faux bois bridge. The park also has pathways, a small waterfall and pond. An ornate relief sculpture marks the entrance to the park.
Conclusion
This is by no means a complete list of the old faux bois of Paris, but I hope it can serve as your gateway to many happy faux bois adventures.
If you find some faux bois that in Paris that has not been included here, please mention your findings and the location in the “comments” so others can benefit from your discovery! Also, if you email me photos of the faux bois you found, I’ll include it in an updated version of this blog. (dianehusson@cox.net)
(All the photos in this blog were taken by Diane and Emile Husson. The antique postcards are from my personal collection.)
